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Bistrøt 104 Restaurant, Prague, Czech Republic

18 Sunday Jun 2017

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Bistrøt 104 opened in February 2017 but we only managed to visit on Saturday 17th June. The ø in Bistrøt is to reflect the Nordic ideals of organic, local, seasonable and sustainable food. The 104 is just the street number and not a latitude or longitude point as I first thought.

The Bistrøt 104 website is pretty sleek and has a professional video and mission statement. The menu is a PDF which is okay these days as most browsers have a built-in PDF reader – no need to download Adobe Reader. You can also make a reservation request on the website, which I did earlier in the same day and received an email response within a few hours.

The exterior is modern but welcoming:

We were warmly welcomed on arrival at 19:00 and offered a choice of tables – the place was empty. At first we looked for a table for two and then realised that four was the smallest.

Chef Pavol Pavlík was in the kitchen:

We ordered a 1l filtered water (49Kc) and a Valle Reale, Montepulciano d‘abruzzo 2015
(779Kc). The waiter was professional, but friendly and was more than able to discuss the wine we’d ordered.

The waiter explained that portions were small and that we should order more than just a starter and main – or perhaps the degustation menu (1090Kc). We’d already guessed that from looking at their website. My personal view is that there shouldn’t be a traditional starter, main, pudding menu as Bistrøt 104 isn’t that kind of place. What I’d prefer is to be able to choose two starters, two mains and one pudding for a set price of, say, 900Kc.

We opted for the degustation menu:
ASPARAGUS yolk foam yolk confit nuts
OXTAIL marrow wild garlic ash-baked potatoes
FISH onion broth almonds
PARSLEY AND MUSHROOMS
LAMB KNEE nettles seaberry horseradish
BEETROOT kefir honey

An amuse-bouche plate arrived; from left-to-right – tempura crisp with wasabi, pâté and (warm) liver.

All were delicious. Bread arrived together with a second amuse-bouche (carrot).

The tomato purée on bread wasn’t to my taste but my girlfriend liked it.

The degustation began!

ASPARAGUS yolk foam yolk confit nuts
Cold with three types of asparagus; white, green and wild. Everything was nice and beautifully presented – but it wasn’t amazing.

OXTAIL marrow wild garlic ash-baked potatoes
A hot soup which had the wow factor that you look for in a place with Michelin aspirations.

FISH onion broth almonds
The waiter served the broth at the table.
The top was a kind of edible paper. The separate jar contained onion foam. It was really good but was missing something that I wish I knew enough to articulate.

PARSLEY AND MUSHROOMS
This was a bit of a disappointment considering how much the Czechs enjoy foraging for mushrooms. Perhaps when the season enters full swing this plate would improve.

LAMB KNEE nettles seaberry horseradish – broth served at the table. I forgot to take a picture of this course but you can rest assured that the presentation was another delight. This dish was excellent and had the wow factor that we were looking for.

BEETROOT kefir honey
The small kefir (like a drinking yoghurt) was delicious. The beetroot good but nothing special for me.

I checked the bathroom.

Modern, clean, stones in the washbasin, towels for hand drying, tissues, a small box containing toothpicks and cotton buds. Perfect.

We declined coffee and digestifs and asked for the bill. So it was nice to still receive some lovely petit fours.

The bill total was 3107Kc plus tip. I was disappointed to see an additional 50Kc per person cover charge and that our second bottle of filtered water (49Kc) had also been added. This at odds with the generousity of the amuse bouches and petit fours. It’s really unnecessary at this level to add a cover change and water should be free.

We enjoyed our dinner. The staff were knowledgeable and friendly. Some plates were exceptional, some not – although all were beautifully presented. It sounds as if I’m being over-critical, but at this level I expect to be wowed.

Nickel and diming on the bill and inconsistent menu aside, this place does represent reasonable fine-dining value. I wouldn’t surprised if Bistrøt 104 receives a Bib Gourmand in the next Michelin guide.

However, there are plenty of great restaurants in Prague and Bistrøt 104 would need to do more to tempt me away from the likes of Sansho, Yuniku and Cicala.

Bistrøt 104
Korunní 810/104
Praha 10
+420 272 660 837

Opening Hours
TUE-SAT 11.00-15.00 18.00-23.00

bistrot@livingvenues.com

http://www.bistrot.cz/

Operation Anthropoid Events, Prague, Czech Republic June 17th and 18th 2017 – review

18 Sunday Jun 2017

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Operation Anthropoid was the code name for the assassination of SS-Obergruppenführer and General der Polizei Reinhard Heydrich.

I previously wrote about the events to commemorate the 75th Anniversary of Operation Anthropoid in Prague on May 27th. I then wrote about my visit to the event. I thought that was it as the date had passed. But then another group organised an event this weekend of Saturday 17th and Sunday 18th of June.

We aimed to visit Karlovo náměstí at 15:00 to see shots fired from a canon at 15:10. But we missed the tram and arrived at 15:12. I don’t think the canon shots were that loud as we weren’t far away and didn’t hear anything.

We then walked around what the organisers call:
A period camp of the Czechoslovak Brigade in Great Britain showcasing a number of period techniques and historical artifacts.

 

This man looked like a Nazi spy using a futuristic communication device:

Past the camp were some vintage military vehicles:

And some people in costume:

But there weren’t many people in civilian costume as the previous Anthropoid event, the majority were soldiers.

There were a few tents selling beer (slightly over-priced at 40Kc and food:

It was all interesting enough, but really only took 20 minutes to look around and we were ready for the 15:40 – Rehearsal for attack on Heydrich’s car. This wasn’t a reconstruction of the actual attack, but a demonstration of how the soldiers trained for various scenarios; shooting, grenade.

The first attempt was reasonably successful, although one soldier’s gun didn’t fire:

The second attempt was a complete fail when the grenade failed to explode:

The event continues today and you still have time to see:

12:40 – Rehearsal for attack on Heydrich’s car – hopefully more successful than yesterday!
14:00 – 16:00 training demonstrations
15:10 – shots fired from a canon
15:40 – Rehearsal for attack on Heydrich’s car – last chance

All events are free.

Church Night, Prague, Czech Republic

11 Sunday Jun 2017

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Church Night this year was Friday 9th June. We had dinner in the garden at Pizzeria Grosseto, by Náměstí Míru and then went on a church tour. None of the churches we visited had a queue or wait to enter.

First was the Church of St. Ludmila at Náměstí Míru.

Next we jumped on a 22 tram all the way to Malostranské náměstí. The plan was to visit St. Nicholas Church. We joined the swarm of people heading the entrance. At the entrance was a sign that said ‘Entrance’ with an arrow pointing back from where we just walked. We walked the entire circumference of the church and decided it was shut – shame on you St. Nicholas Church.

We walked back one tram stop to the Church of Our Lady Victorious:

Next was a walk across Charles Bridge to St. Salvator Church.

This was the best visit so far. There was eerie music being played:

You could climb up to a gallery:

And take pictures looking down:

It was now just after 11pm. We walked along Karlova Street to the Old Town Square, then straight into the Church of Our Lady before Týn. Was good but the church is so much more impressive from the outside:

That concluded our Church Night. Thanks to all the churches that opened their doors.

Church and Museum Nights in Prague, Czech Republic – 9th and 10th June 2017

09 Friday Jun 2017

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Prague churches and museums open their doors this weekend.

Church Night Friday 9th June: Almost 3,000 places of Christian worship will be open in Prague and Central Bohemia. Some 145 are in Prague and range from St Vitus’ Cathedral at Prague Castle to small chapels and rotundas. Most churches also arrange a concert evening. Admission is free. More information: https://www.nockostelu.cz/index.php?pg=aktuality&id=712

Museum Night Saturday 10th June: 49 museums, galleries and other cultural institutions in 79 buildings will be open. Many have entertainment programs or tours. There is free admission to all museums except the Vyšehrad National Cultural Monument which will charge a symbolic entrance fee of 1Kč. More information: http://www.prazskamuzejninoc.cz/2017/index.php?l=en

There are also free buses on Saturday 10th June between 18:30 and 01:00:

1 Staroměstská – Vítkov – Staroměstská

2 Staroměstská – Troja – Staroměstská

3 Staroměstská – Muzeum – Vyšehrad – Staroměstská

4 Staroměstská – Hradčanské náměstí – Staroměstská

5 Staroměstská – Švandovo divadlo – Malostranské náměstí – Staroměstská

6 Staroměstská – Letecké muzeum – Ctěnice – Staroměstská

7 Staroměstská – Malostranská – Muzejní – Staroměstská

8 Staroměstská – Dejvická – Obora Hvězda – Dejvická – Staroměstská

9 Staroměstská – Výtoň – Albertov – I. P. Pavlova – Florenc – Staroměstská

10 Smíchovské nádraží – MeetFactory – Smíchovské nádraží

and the Prague metro runs until 01:00.

The popular places often have long queues. My advice is to avoid places that you can normally access anyway for a fee and visit unusual places or those that are only open for Museum Night.

Pho Vietnamese Restaurant, Prague, Czech Republic

06 Tuesday Jun 2017

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There are several restaurants called Pho in Prague. Pho is a Vietnamese noodle soup so not a name you can trademark. This one calls itself ‘Pho Original’. I’ve no idea if they were the first Pho or not. What they do have is outside seating, albeit on the street.

 

We sat on the table for two to the right of the door – that isn’t us sitting there in the photo!

We ordered a reasonably-priced bottle of Puglia Primitivo (285Kc) and an over-priced jug of tap water (59Kc). They did refill the jug for free, but that’s still too much for a jug of tap water, even if it did have a lime in it.

For starters we had coconut tempura tiger prawns (115Kc) and spring rolls (69Kc). The tempura was a bit heavy, not helped by the coconut. The spring rolls were perfect.

For main, we both had duck in red curry and rice (195Kc per) – plenty of duck slices and it was pretty good.

The restaurant interior looks good:

The toilets were clean and modern, the only disappointment was the useless hand dryer on the wall. It was one of those stop every 3 seconds, hardly blow air, get so hot you burn your hands and eventually dry on your jeans versions.

Our total bill for dinner and wine outside 918Kc. It’s a reasonable price for what we had and we’ll go back again.

Pho Original
Záhřebská 468/21
Praha 2    120 00

+420 608 363 327
info@phooriginal.cz

Open daily from 11:00 – 23:00

http://www.phooriginal.cz/

Vlkova 26 Bar/Club, Prague, Czech Republic

03 Saturday Jun 2017

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Vlkova 26 is a bar/club in Prague’s Žižkov area. The Žižkov has a reputation for being a bit rough with plenty of late-night bars. But the area has undergone urban renewal and isn’t really rough – although there are plenty of late-night bars.

Vlkova 26 is the name of the bar and also the street address – which makes it easy to find, especially as the bar doesn’t have a sign outside:

Inside is a large dark room – the bar on the right and a dance floor and DJ stand at the back:

The place has a cool vibe and fits well into the Žižkov. Just off the dance floor are the toilets, which were clean and functional, but this is Žižkov and so you’d be disappointed if there wasn’t any graffiti:

I was actually here to see the first DJ performance of two Swedish girls Ellen & Ottie:

The event invitation on Facebook is here.

The guys behind the bar were friendly, the measures seemed generous, the prices good – although I can’t actually remember how much I paid in the end.

I was the oldest person there but didn’t feel out of place.

Ellen & Ottie did a good job – my measure of success being that they played music I liked and people danced:

Here are Ellen & Ottie enjoying their set:

I enjoyed my time getting down with the kids in Vlkova 26 and I’d go back again if they let me.

Vlkova 26
130 00 Prague

Opens 20:00 – 05:00

https://www.facebook.com/Vlkova26/

Lavička Restaurant, Prague, Czech Republic

03 Saturday Jun 2017

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Lavička is on a busy street in Prague’s Žižkov area. The Žižkov has a reputation for being a bit rough with plenty of late-night bars. But the area has undergone urban renewal and isn’t really rough – although there are plenty of late-night bars.

Lavička isn’t a late-night bar, but instead quite a decent pub restaurant, with a large garden at the rear. They actually call themselves ‘Lavička Zahradní Restaurace’ – Lavička Garden Restaurant. It’s just a short walk down the hill from the tram stop Lipanska (5, 9, 15, 26).

There’s quite a big restaurant inside with a corridor leading to a conservatory:

Beyond the conservatory is a large garden, but only a small part of that has tables:

There weren’t any bugs flying around and I was able to eat outside.

The menu is a mixture of Czech classics, some pasta and a few ambitious dishes.

I had a Bacon Cheeseburger with onion rings, coleslaw and fries (230Kc) and a couple of half litres of Bernard beer (38Kc per). It was decent burger and beer – just what I needed before I went to a nearby late-night pub (Vlkova 26) with plenty of drinks and no food.

Service was friendly enough, maybe a little slow but they were quite busy. I wouldn’t make a special trip, but if you find yourself in the Žižkov then you’ll be okay here.

Seifertova 77,
Praha 3 – 130 00

Open daily: 11.00 – 23.00

+420 222 221 350

http://www.restaurace-lavicka.cz/en/

More Operation Anthropoid Events in Prague – 17th and 18th June

31 Wednesday May 2017

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Operation Anthropoid was the code name for the assassination of SS-Obergruppenführer and General der Polizei Reinhard Heydrich.

I previously wrote about the events to commemorate the 75th Anniversary of Operation Anthropoid in Prague on May 27th. I then wrote about my visit to the event. I thought that was it as the date had passed. But now it looks like another group are organising an event on Saturday 17th and Sunday 18th of June.

The location is Karlovo náměstí – the largest square in the Czech Republic. Karlovo náměstí is in Prague 2, but is really close to the centre. There are plenty of trams running through and also a metro station.

The organisers call themselves ‘Czechoslovak Legionnaire and Rota Nazdar’ – they have a Facebook page (in Czech). They describe the event as follows:
A period camp of the Czechoslovak Brigade in Great Britain showcasing a number of period techniques and historical artifacts. One of the demonstrations will be devoted to training for possible variants of attacks on Reinhard Heydrich’s moving car.

The schedule is as follows:

Saturday 17. 6. 2017
9:30 – camp opens
10:00 – 12:00 training demonstrations
11:10 – shots fired from a canon
11:40 – Rehearsal for attack on Heydrich’s car
13:00 – 14:00 – Unveiling of a plaque on nearby Resslově street
15:10 – shots fired from a canon
15:40 – Rehearsal for attack on Heydrich’s car

Sunday 18. 6. 2017
9:00 – camp opens
11:30 – opening ceremony
11:45 – artillery training
11:50 – shots fired from a canon
12:00 – 13:00 training demonstrations
12:40 – Rehearsal for attack on Heydrich’s car
14:00 – 16:00 training demonstrations
15:10 – shots fired from a canon
15:40 – Rehearsal for attack on Heydrich’s car

All events are free.

In the evening of both days, you can watch a series of movies about Operation Anthropoid at the nearby MAT cinema for just 99 Kč admission:

Saturday 17. 6.2017
18:15 Anthropoid (2016, 120 minutes, directed by Sean Ellis)
20:30 ATENTÁT (1964, 100 minutes, directed by Jiří Sequens)

Sunday 18. 6.2017
16:00 VYŠŠÍ PRINCIP (1960, 102 minutes, directed by Jiří Krejčík)
18:00 Lidice (2011, 126 minutes, directed by Petr Nikolaev)
20:30 SMRTIHLAV (2017, 119 minutes, directed by Cédric Jimenez)

Anthropoid is the only English language film although that might be dubbed into Czech. The Facebook page isn’t clear about languages and sub-titles.

May 27th 2017 Events in Prague to Commemorate the 75th Anniversary of Operation Anthropoid – Review

28 Sunday May 2017

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31st May 2017 update: There is a new event planned for weekend of 17th and 18th June.

I previously wrote about the events to commemorate the 75th Anniversary of Operation Anthropoid in Prague. Operation Anthropoid was the code name for the assassination of SS-Obergruppenführer and General der Polizei Reinhard Heydrich.

I went on May 27th for the 14:15 sequence of events. I didn’t go for the morning plaque unveiling, nor the reconstruction of the military attack on Heydrich, although I did get off the tram at U kříže where the reconstruction occurred.

There was nothing at U kříže to show where to go. Luckily I was able to ask someone and they directed me.

The actual location was a small area in front of the Municipal Authority of Prague 8 building on U Meteoru 6. There was a stage area with audience seating; alongside that a few tents selling beer, noodles, cakes and Czech sausages. Behind the seating were several historic vehicles and a 1:1 replica of a Spitfire.

The Scottish bagpipe band performance started and although I wouldn’t listen to recorded bagpipe music, live bagpipes do add an atmosphere to military events.

Here’s the view from the other side of the stage, with an Austin 8 car and Spitfire plane in the foreground.

There was a board that could have been from 1945 or may have been produced for the event.

A Chevrolet C15 truck.

A Vauxhall staff Limousine.

What I think was a Jeep.

What I know was a Jeep.

There was a cameraman and presenter from the Czech news channel CT24. I asked if they’d filmed the recreation of the assassination and she said yes and that it would be online – I posted that near the end of this article.

Then there was a demonstration by the Čsl. Independent Armoured Brigade. It was all in Czech and so I wandered around and tried to find the reconstruction of street scenes of occupied Prague. The Operation Anthropoid poster promised; streets and buildings will be themed; posters, tailors shop, newsagent, post-raid civil defence office of auxiliary of the German Red Cross. I suppose I was expecting too much, having been on movie sets where the budget allows for an entire street to be themed; each building with a façade.

In reality, there were a few posters, a wooden kiosk made to look like a news/tobacco shop and an entrance with some red cross theming. Also directly in front of this was a modern car, covered in a brown tarpaulin – I’ve no idea why this wasn’t moved. I was pretty disappointed. However, there were lots of people in costume they really brought the place to life:

Just past the red cross was an SS Volkswagen Kubelwagen:

At 15:30 the costumed players began acting out scenes from life during the German occupation. There was a constant and, in my view unnecessary, commentary throughout – but the actors did a really good job:

You can see how that modern car completely trashes the scene. Here are two more videos – note that there is some simulated violence in both.

I didn’t have the memory space on my phone to film the entire sequences – I planned to find the CT24 film and share it, but I couldn’t find it. I’ll update this page if I find something.

I did find a CT24 video of the reconstruction of the military attack on Heydrich at U kříže – again an unnecessary commentary throughout:

Here is a news video that tells the history:

Lastly a picture of the Rebel Pipers taking a break:

May 27th 2017 Events in Prague to Commemorate the 75th Anniversary of Operation Anthropoid

23 Tuesday May 2017

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31st May 2017 update: There is a new event planned for weekend of 17th and 18th June.

Operation Anthropoid was the code name for the assassination of Schutzstaffel (SS)-Obergruppenführer and General der Polizei Reinhard Heydrich, head of the Reichssicherheitshauptamt (Reich Main Security Office, RSHA), the combined security services of Nazi Germany, and acting Reichsprotektor of the Protectorate of Bohemia and Moravia. The operation was performed in Prague on 27 May 1942 after having been prepared by the British Special Operations Executive with the approval of the Czechoslovak government-in-exile. Wounded in the attack, Heydrich died of his injuries on 4 June 1942. His death led to a wave of merciless reprisals by German SS troops, including the destruction of villages and the killing of civilians. Anthropoid was the only successful assassination of a senior Nazi leader during World War II.

Saturday 27th May 2017 is the 75th Anniversary of Operation Anthropoid and a whole day of events is planned in the Prague 8 district. All events are free.

09:30
Unveiling a commemorative plaque
Gabčíkova 1224/4 (nearest tram looks like Vychovatelna which is on the 24 route.

It’s about a 30 minute walk to the next venue (Tram stop U kříže). The 24 goes there but could be diverted because of the event. Nearest metro, I think is Palmovka and then a 10 minute walk.

From 10.25 to 10.45
Reconstruction of a military attack on Heydrich
The original location has been redeveloped, so the reconstruction will happen at the tram stop U kříže, which is similar to the original.

There will be some vintage trams and other vehicles to add authenticity.

11.30 to 19.00 – Program in front of the Municipal Authority of Prague 8, U Meteoru 6 – it’s only a five-minute walk to here from U kříže

12.15, 14:15 and 16:15
Scottish bagpipe band performance: The Rebel Pipers

12.30, 14:30 and 16:30
Training demo by the  Čsl. Independent Armoured Brigade

13.00, 15:00 and 17:00
Guided tour of Camp Democrat by RAF units. The Camp Democrat features:
Genuine Vauxhall staff Limousine 14hp 1939
Military Supplies Austin Tilly in 1943
Two small British trucks (Bedford)
Small staff car Austin 8 in RAF colours
Chevrolet C15 truck
Two American Jeeps
A 1:1 scale model of a Spitfire MK.IXc

 

13.30, 15:30 and 17:30
Reconstruction of street scenes of occupied Prague. Streets and buildings will be themed; posters, tailors shop, newsagent, post-raid civil defence office of auxiliary of the German Red Cross.

18.00 to 19.00 – concert by country-music band Taxmeni

May 26th at 21:00: There is also a free screening of the Czech movie ATENTÁT (1964, director Jiří Sequens) in the courtyard of Libeňského zámku, projekce Kinobusu Dopravního podniku – although I’d guess only in Czech and without subtitles.